NewHorizonOrchids.com

We recently met a Colombian lady that came to us in search of Cymbidium flowers.
She revealed herself as a knowledgeable person about cymbidiums. She claimed to have been involved in Cymbidium growing in the Medellin area and that she once had a flower farm at about 2,700 mts above sea level . Indeed she talked knowledgeably about the subject.

When we took her to the flower buckets we had for sale, she looked around, picked 4 stems, and told us that she wanted to buy more but that our flowers were "too open".

Now, she got me thinking that maybe we are cutting the stems too late when about 90% of flowers have opened.

What is the best "rule of thumb" on this topic?

Thanks,

To Those Who Know the Answer

I'm am looking forward to the answer to this question.
I was under the impression that cut flower orchids (cymbidiums, and dendrobiums) don't open well, if at all, after cutting.

Apparently she knows something? Or cut flower growers don't care, and sell 1/3 open, which perform poorly for the customer??

This is an interesting question. I cut the dendrobs (phal, biggibum, antelope hybrid types) for the lady I work for, and I never cut before nearly 100%, and they last several weeks in water in the house. I often cut the cymbids (when I have any--here in eastern Texas) too since they are in quite large pots, and unwieldy.

Thanks for bringing this up.
Rex

I would be interested in what the experts have to say on this topic, I would rather leave them on the plant and bring the whole plant inside to enjoy, as my experience shows the flowers last longer than if the stems were cut.

For the commercial point of view, I am sure there would be an optimum time when to cut the stem and importantly how to treat it for longest flower life.

Gary S wrote:and importantly how to treat it for longest flower life.

Gary,
This is a good additional point.
I currently mix some drops of lemon and a tablespoon of sugar to the water buckets.
My wife says that by leaving the stems tips inside water tubes the flowers last longer.
Some big florists around here have refrigerated rooms to store their flower stock.

Gary S wrote:don't open well, if at all, after cutting

We also leave the stems all the time possible attached to the plants as they seem to keep longer.

I'm really waiting for more ideas on this to pop up

I think that woman knows a lot less about Cymbidiums than she thinks! basically she is speaking nonsense. The best time to cut a stem for sale is when the last bud is nearly fully opn. That way any buyer can easily see that the stem is fresh. Flowers opened after cutting will be smaller and poorer and take energy from the spike. If you add a commercial compound with some respiratory substrate (sugar) and a chemical to prevent vascular plugging, your spike will last longer but many good Cyms will last six weeks in plain water.

What a great topic!
I was told or read somewhere that you cut the spike when half the flowers have opened and the rest are showing early signs. This also helps the plant reduce stress levels and it is more likely to flower well the next season. But like Gary, I am a hobbyist and prefer to bring the whole thing inside. Mr. Morris, a prominent breeder in Australia, suggests putting the whole plant back outside after a couple of weeks for a while, and bring it in later until it has finished flowering.

This topic then opens the question of which varieties of cymbidiums are renowned "poor keepers." I recall you have sold off some plants because they only last a week or so when cut? The lemon and sugar tip from Gary is interesting. I add a bit of sugar to the cut roses. I'm not sure if it helps.

Fellas,
I also thought that in cutting the spikes, and putting the plant back outside allows not only new growth earlier, but the cooling necessary for the most embryonic flower buds to form in the new growths. I want to say Kobsuhk, or someone writing a cymbidium paper is where I saw this. Can't seem find it at the moment to quote more correctly.

Just like gladiolus, and others of this sort, the last flowers will be pale and smaller if the spike is cut way early. When a stem is cut, the flowers only have the carbohydrates present in the stem and oldest flowers to mature the final flowers, just like Mr. Cym said.

Thanks for your time and trouble.

Rex

EVERYONE hold your horses.
Mr. Cym has made a short matter-of-fact comment on this question. I think Rodrigo deserves a more comprehensive reply. He has paid his hard earned money to be a part of this forum, so he is entitled to a proper reply. I know MrCym will be celebrating this Australia Day Holiday Weekend but some of us have to work since accidents occur even during holidays. I advocate shutting little people in cupboards during public holidays.
He is no different. I shall be working from 06:00 till probably 10:00 while you northerners are still in bed with your beannies on. Only THEN will I join in the celebrations with a huge damper and a rousing 3 cheers for the Queen.

Now, what was all this about? Oh yes. MrCym wants to plug Rex's spike.

Happy Australia Day Nigel, I will have a quiet cold beer for you to wash down the prawns while you are hard at work.

This link is interesting but has very little to do with growing orchids - the part about cut flower does have some
merit in my opinion. http://www.ba-bamail.com/Content.aspx?e ... rid=930872